Year-round Kayak Commuting
and Paddling in Arctic Conditions
Commuting the concept and its requirements
(commuting, work, excuses, weather, report, NOAA, winds, sleep)
I
like to go paddling on the open water, but it is a little different for me to
paddle to a destination, such as an island, which cannot be reached by any
means other than by a boat, spend the evening and consistently return to be at
work on land on time. The challenge
becomes much more demanding when you decide that you want to routinely do this,
not only to just do this one or two times every so often but to actually commute
from an island. That is what I
did. I commuted by kayak.
The
most difficult part of commuting isn't the commute over the water but is
planning and the foresight I had to develop so that I was sure that I would get
to my land job consistently on time.
How
well I will always remember a most embarrassing situation when weather
conditions were too demanding for me.
There I was very ill at ease, trapped on an island. When I did finally get to work my
explanation was to no avail. It would
have been more relevant if I had told them that I had just come down from an
evening visit to Mars and had accidentally miscalculated the time zone because
I went for another orbit just for the fun of it, but that I was so pleased with
myself because I hadn't gotten lost in a time warp and had made the mistake of
having arrived in the wrong era. There
at my job they would have had an even more difficult situation, suppose I had
accidentally happened to return to earth a few thousand years earlier or
later. I think they would have been
more receptive of this explanation than of this actual one I, in the best of
faith, provided them with.
The
situation progressed after I arrived at work feeling most contrite even though
I had just risked my life as I successfully escaped the waves that tried to
inhale my kayak and very glad to be on terra firma so glad in fact that I had
to restrain myself from the intense temptation to kiss the ground when I
landed. But now as I elaborated on my
commuting crisis, the reaction by the individual in charge of time and
attendance appeared to be entirely bereft of even the slightest twinge of
comprehension. When I mentioned waves,
the person could only think of waves in the context of those lovely little
things that lap softly on the beach in the summertime. When I suggested strong winds, the person
imagined that wind only blows on land but never on the water and even if the
wind does blow on the water the water is always flat. The water is always flat and the land can be hilly the person
seemed to imagine. The whole idea of
commuting by kayak is likely to be dismissed as crazy, why would you ever want
to do that? Thus the non-kayaking
person thought that demands of commuting solely by kayak from an island were
incompatible with what is conceived as responsible employee behavior where I
was employed.
Now
I knew that I really had quite a challenge ahead of me because I preferred this
wonderful world of independence that my kayak gave me to making my compromise
to the world of the motorboat. Then
again, there are those severe storm conditions where even a motorboat is not
especially safe to use, but I did not think about that. I just thought about commuting by kayak.
To
a certain extent I resolved some of this problem by listening to the NOAA
marine forecast before I made my evening crossings. I found that I was comfortable in winds up to 20 knots. After 20 knots paddling becomes hard work
and conditions are chaotic especially during the return with a following sea in
the dark predawn hours.
The
other side of the coin is - how well are you going to sleep if you have to
listen to crashing waves all night? I
found that the potentiality of this sort of threatening situation adversely
affected my sleep. Among the many
aspects to boating experiences there are some, which may be considered to be
helpful for other unrelated problems.
It is well known that many people suffer from disturbed sleep patterns
and there are even those who can't sleep at all. I guess that those who sleep especially soundly, the same way
that I used to notice my dogs used to sleep absolutely dead to the world, while
the waves are crashing all night are all right.
Work Applications of the Kayak - Gail E. Ferris
(work, transportation, load, straps, balance, deck, barge,
towing/pushing, back bag, tie down, trailer, boulder beach, plastic, rollers, )
Well
I don’t know about you but I like a little challenge it is nice to be a sport
paddler, but suppose you want to use your kayak for some commuting. Well commuting can be oh just that routine
stuff, you know, just going back and forth.
Then again how about really using your kayak for commuting. Not just the ordinary back and forth, anybody
can do that in the summer during the day in calm weather but how about transporting
things. I began to think about it and I
found myself imaging a surprising number of ways I could use my kayak. I really wasn’t sure and at this point I had
not been to the arctic and talked with friends I know now, Rasmuss Grim, for
example. After talking with Rasmuss I
learned the kayak has amazing capabilities and this is only in Greenland not
Baffin Island where the uses of the kayak really amount to the kayak being a
freight hauling craft.
www.guillemot-kayaks.com/Trips/Gail/1925UpernavikExp.htm
I
decided to figure out ways to utilize my kayak as a means for transporting all
sorts of items I would need for everyday living on Rogers Island. I bought everyday items and flowers and
plants for the gardens, strapped them onto my stern deck and paddled them
across. It was great fun having all
sorts of things stacked and strapped on.
I never had a problem and there were no large boat wakes or waves when I
made my crossings. It did require some
thought and planning but the stern deck of a kayak is amazingly stable.
There
was a movie Wedding of Palo www.qajaqusa.org/References/culture&history.htm
made by
Knud Rasmussen showing a bridegroom, Mahnessa Mathiesson with his bride sitting
up against him paddling through rough seas illustrating this although Mahnessa
was Greenland’s grand national champion kayak paddler for many years.
Then
I looked at some misplaced boats at our docks and decided to move them with my
kayak. It worked. Small motor boats tied in the wrong places
could be moved without all that much trouble.
That was fun.
For
some reason I hate running motors on motorboats they just never start all that
easily and who knows at low tide you get to dig clams at the island maybe
ruining the bottom bracket or propeller so to me it is much easier to just use
my reliable kayak.
Then
in the winter I decided that some dog food had to be brought across so I lashed
onto the stern deck 50 pound bags of dog food.
I knew that just as long a nothing slipped while I was paddling I would
be okey. I lashed them with good strong
nylon straps. Delrin clips I found to
be the most reliable fool proof clips on any deck straps. I could tighten them up nice an tight and
they would not work free or break loose.
Delrin, a solid form of Nylon, is a wonderful invention.
I
used flat nylon strapping rather than round line although it is easy to obtain
has a marked effect of slowing a kayak down.
I would only recommend you use round line if you want to improve your
paddling muscles. The best lashing
material is flat nylon strap with a suitable adjustable buckle, which can
easily be tightened up. In addition, for
the initial positioning and balancing of the load while the kayak is floating,
which is the most likely time you will lose your cargo overboard, it is handy
to have adjustable elastic rear deck straps mounted securely on the hull. Beneath these straps you can temporarily
secure the cargo with until you can position all the cargo and finally lash it
securely with the flat Nylon strap. Now
remember, you have to allow yourself weight distribution, which permits the kayak
to stay upright when you are paddling, so don't load heavy items too high above
the deck. Paddle paddle, brace brace is
nice challenge, its good practice but not when you are trying to transport
things you want to arrive safely somewhere.
On
Baffin Island the kayak is specially designed with the stern deck of the kayak
to be low and flat. My first kayak
happened to be similar to the Baffin Island type and it was the easiest type of
kayak to position and carry a load on and the most stable, so I always used
kayaks with that same type of low, flat stern deck.
Because
of the ice conditions created by the cold water of the West Greenland current
in Davis Strait, Baffin Islanders rarely have open water, but instead they have
to paddle between moving ice pans or have follow whatever open leads there are
through the shelf ice. The Baffin
islanders have had to design their kayaks to carry their bulky cargo on their
stern decks, such as the rather heavy seals.
Greenlanders
tow seals and Rasmuss Grim told me that he and three other hunters once towed
back thirty six seals together at one time.
Some story, but Inuit people are not afraid to rig inventions for
transporting the hunt. They commonly
would hunt ducks or catch fish and return home with their kayak decks covered
with them.
For
large quantities of cargo, that is just too difficult to carry on your decks,
the simplest solution is tow another small craft loaded as much as you
dare. The fate of having to rescue your
things out of salt water is just not quite what you really want to have to deal
with. The length of the tow line is
better longer at least 20 feet with a segment of shock cord spliced into it
somewhere to absorb the tugging from your miniature barge will exert on you
while you try to make way. The coast
guard tows ships with as much as a mile of line so that the line acts as a
shock absorber, however you might find for your kayak this is just a little bit
excessive.
I
have not experimented with pushing another craft such as is done on rivers in
front tugs and barges. On flat water
such as early morning just at sunrise pushing may be another possibility.
I
used my Alden Ocean Shell single hull as a very convenient barge. The large cockpit was perfect for bulky
loads. The Alden only weighs 35 pounds
empty and the rowing unit lifts completely out of the hull leaving plenty of
room for loads.
Having
to unload my kayak and carry the contents up the beach I have devised a neat
system for carrying my cargo. I keep a
simple large nylon pack bag that can wear on my shoulders.
The
nylon pack made of nylon pack cloth with a sturdy plastic zipper across the top
to be closed. This pack will fold up
into a surprisingly small size for stowage.
What
is fun about this loaded bag is slung onto your back, the weight of the load
acts as a counterbalance. The heavier
the load you put into it, the more leverage it provides you when you pick up
your empty kayak up off the ground onto your shoulder to carry it up the beach. With just the right weight combination your
kayak will feel as though it is floating off the ground.
You
really don't want to put scratches on your kayak hull because those scratches
will just slow the hull speed and make the kayak noisier.
To
avoid getting those scratches on the hull what I do is rise the sand off my
feet and then position my toes up against roughly the middle of the cockpit
just where I plan to roll my kayak up onto its side.
I
bend down hook my forearm and stabilize the outside with my other hand under
the inside of the far side of the cockpit lip.
With my arm hooked under the cockpit lip I very neatly roll my kayak
over on its side onto directly onto my feet.
Now
my kayak is resting on my soft clean toes.
On my forearm I pick my kayak up at its balance point by the
cockpit.
Next
I lift my kayak up to my waist height.
Then
I boost and rest my elbow on the top of my pelvis. Now with a quick hip thrust I can pop your kayak up onto my
shoulder using only those larger muscles of your legs and lower back for doing
this heavy lifting.
I
find that the easiest way to carry my kayak once it is completely empty is to
balance it by its cockpit lip on my shoulder.
For me this is the quickest and the easiest way, especially when I am
alone, to move my kayak up the beach.
Trying
to just use your arms and upper back to pick up a kayak, especially if it is a
heavy kayak, is much to great a strain for your body. Don't even bother unless you want to see how old you can feel,
instantly.
Just
remember that your field of vision is somewhat limited while you are carrying
your kayak high on you shoulder. Your
upper arm is in your line of vision and you may not see a stick in your way and
be able to judge uneven ground. Nothing
can be worse than going falling head over heals with your kayak helping propel
you into the ground.
To
boost my kayak up onto my car I once again boost my kayak up off my shoulder by
using my thigh muscles to spring the kayak off my shoulders and up over my
head.
I take into account wind
should there be any making sure that I do not lift the kayak over my head into
the wind. When it is windy I put my
back to the wind and take advantage of the push the wind will give me while I
am positioning my kayak on top of my roof racks.
What
I do with kayaks and small boats, such as an Alden Ocean Shell complete with
rowing mechanism, that are too heavy or awkward to be moved by being carried, I
just float and strap them onto a simple two-wheel trailer and wheel them up the
beach.
For
boulder strewn beaches or where it is not possible to lift from the center or
roll the kayak I have resorted to getting the kayak up the beach by lifting it
up and carrying it end over end. In
Upernavik I was forced to land on a shelf of granite flanked by steep rock. I lifted one end up and carried it up the
rock face then tied it off with line.
Then I lifted the opposite end up and did the same until I got the kayak
up to safety.
Carrying
end over end is a good emergency strategy when you have no other options but be
very careful not to wedge the tip of either end between some rocks causing
damage to your kayak.
When
on an expedition everything depends on that kayak.
On
an expedition your kayak to try to minimize the possible damage and abrasion to
the bow, stern and other contact points by placing fabric or plastic under
these areas. Sharp rocks, especially
granite, can rip or slice holes in a fabric hull.
Recently
I have found that two or three foam “pool noodles” carried just inside my
cockpit are the best rollers. I thread
rope down the hole in the center and knot each end off with a loop tied with a
Bolin. The Bolin is a nice knot for
this application because it provides enough bulk to prevent the line from
sliding back down inside the tube opening and can also be easily retied as need
be.
I
have saved myself more hard work and wear and tare on my kayak hull by rolling
my boat up rocks and over beaches with these pool noodles.
Once
I have my kayak situated on the rocks for the evening I put the pool noodles
around the hull and tie them into U shapes to protect the hull from wearing on
the rocks if the wind blows while I am in camp. I had a situation in Greenland when I could not quite get my
kayak above the high tide for the evening and I was exhausted. I used the pool noodles to protect the hull
from wave action during the night and it worked out much better than nothing,
which was the other option.
These
pool noodles with rope loops sticking out each end can be adapted to function
as emergency outriggers or external floatation should the need arise.
One
of those what I would call a "religious moment" was when I found that
my boat had been blown around and rolled by the wind during the night
"when you are the only show in town" and "kayaks don't grow on
trees" or they do "it takes longer than you want to wait" so to
speak, the last thing you want to have happen is your boat to leave without you
in it. You could compare this to, having the emergency brake on your car let go
and having it take off down a hill, only this situation is worse.
In
the flat areas of the Arctic this is especially likely to happen because there
the winds blow uninhibited because there aren't any land forms such as
mountains with lees to slow the wind. I
assume nothing when I bed down for the evening, I always tie my kayak off to a
solid object such as a tree or boulder for the night.
I
was really hard pressed in Barrow. In
Barrow Alaska and the east side of Baffin Island it is flat as a pancake. In Barrow there are absolutely no rocks
bigger than an inch diameter. I
improvised by nesting kayak into one of the many shallow ravines eroded into
the peat soil beds and rigging it to stakes forced into the soft
substrate. The wind rips through at
whatever miles an hour it feels like. I
experienced a solid 50 mph when I was there and anywhere in the arctic there
can be very high wind. Wind strong
enough to blow structures down. What I
do is take a tent which uses a single pole so that I can lower it if need
be. Luckily I have not had to do that
but I have seen wind strong enough to be difficult to stay upright in that my
tent has withstood. I always bring
with an emergency bivouac.
With
sufficient wind I have found my kayak has enough surface area to join the
self-propelled jet set all on its own.
Just think, with a high wind conditions, you can enjoy your kayak as a
kite. Just another life for your kayak,
after all lots of people start second careers, so why shouldn't your kayak,
although I prefer my kayak well secured on the ground or myself in the kayak on
the water with me at the helm.
Night paddling in summer
(night paddling, summer, stars, vision, wave intervals, feeling,
hearing, counting, hull design, balance upright, meteors, binoculars,
moonlight, rip, shallows, reefs, paddle
feelers)
The
Solitary Winter Evening Sea Kayaker - Gail Ferris
Often
the question is raised " Why does a person practice such a risky sport
under such difficult conditions?"
But
when you find yourself just getting off the water at 10:00 in the evening, you
have probably found the answer is that you find sea kayaking such a pleasure in
so many ways, that even the dark nights do not keep you from being on the
water.
I
think paddling at night is just the best way to watch the stars especially to
watch for shooting stars. You can lie
back on your stern deck your kayak will be just as perfectly stable and
actually even more stable than when you are sitting upright in the
cockpit. The only problem is that you
may over stretch your back if you remain lying bent backward over your seat
back for too long. You will notice that
the next day.
The
depth of darkness is variable and is not necessarily going to hinder your
paddling because this is partially due to the capability, which you may find
that you have, to actually be able to see and relate sufficiently well enough
to what the waves were doing in conditions such as starlight.
Although
few people venture out on the water during the summer evenings, there are many
special moments which I find such unforgettable moments when I laying back on
rear deck of my kayak under the stars in that chance expectation of just
happening to witness a flurry of brilliant shooting stars. Although every once in a while there are
those moments when you'd swear that one just came too close making you feel
compelled to duck. You wonder how we
are so lucky not to have more things struck by meteors, I guess that this might
be where the statement "Thank your lucky stars" may originate.
The
moonlight turns the tiniest waves into a voyage through scintillating silvery
movement that just goes on and on forever.
It is great fun to bring some binoculars along to look at the moon, the
planets and some of the star groups with.
Finding very calm water is necessary to do this with because you can't
look very easily at anything distant through binoculars when the water is
making you bob up, down and around while you try to remain focused.
I
have a pair of Zeiss binoculars have lenses 8 x 20 made the best type of glass
for low light situations and they withstand corrosion by seawater well. I enjoy looking at the moon through them.
Now
how do you paddle when it is dark? Well
where I live it is not completely dark, but on the other hand it is too dark to
be able to judge distance between objects whether they be islands of which we
happen to have many or waves. It is
perfectly easy to paddle into something and disconcerting to find a passage
that is perfectly obvious in broad daylight.
Nothing like paddling into black not quite sure if it is or is not what
it looks like.
With
this level of darkness since I cannot judge distances between waves I have no
idea when I hear a wave how close it is to me.
So I found another trick. I
switch over to utilizing my other senses.
What
I do is concentrate on the time intervals between waves and swells, especially
waves coming up behind me in following seas.
What I do is compare the time intervals and when the time interval is
longer I know to expect a larger wave and maybe to be ready to brace for it
when I feel it coming up to my boat.
From the time interval I can judge what the sea will feel like.
Now
the next thing to do is to transfer my knowledge of time interval into
comparing how the boat is feeling as a wave is hitting my hull. When I am out there paddling broadside to
the waves especially on a very overcast stormy evening, I switch from this very
confusing visual experience to listening and feeling the waves through my body
in my kayak. Luckily I have paddled a
shallow elliptical shaped hull for years and I am used to the physical cues
from this hull. I substitute my
physical sense of feeling with my body in place of what my eyes tell me in
daylight. In the inky blackness of the
night you can't see the waves and at most they will appear to you only as black
shadows looming at you and breaking unpredictably. This is very disconcerting.
Trying
to figure out with these limited visual cues when and where these waves will
break is very interesting but now turn your concentration to how the water
feels as it passes beneath your kayak because the height and steepness of the
waves are reflecting the bottom, the currents relative to the wind that is or
was driving these waves.
I
have found because I have insufficient visual references that I cannot be
completely sure by using my eyes as to if I am paddling your kayak with its
hull level when it should be level.
Well
I figured out how to solve this question at night by feeling if the boat is
horizontal through my paddle. While I am paddling with my boat level I test by
leaning to feel for the position in which my boat paddles with least lateral
resistance, just the same way you would go about leaning a bicycle around a
curve and leaning a bicycle on a straight of way.
A
kayak with an elliptical and or a shallow "V" cross section hull
mid-ship will register to you this change in resistance. A round bottomed or especially narrow kayak
would be more challenging to do this with, but once you know that it is of even
length on each side, checking for how much of your paddle is in the water on
each side is also a good indicator.
Another means for a single paddle is are you reaching the same distance
to hit the water with your paddle on each side.
I
can say that on chalky gray day with perfectly flat water and with no horizon
line that I found myself feeling dizzy because of the conflict between my eyes
and my body. In Greenland this is
called kayak angst and it is a very threatening situation to be in.
Listening
is a key sense for determining wave action as to where it is and its relative
height and activity.
I
call listening my insurance policy.
Coupling my timing with counting the cadence cycle of waves gives me an
approximate idea as to when I need to brace or to avoid a large wave, when
rounding a headland or point. As I am
sitting in my so small a boat I imagine these greedy waves as being boat
inhalers or vacuum cleaners because they give me that feeling as they sort of
roll up to me they always seem to suck in water as if they are about to take a
gigantic yawn. The yawn is when the
wave out of nowhere decides to break.
If it is just a big swell I think of that as that the water has decided
that it needs to take in a deep breath for the moment, but its the yawns watch
out for, especially if I am right in the middle of one.
When
it comes to dealing with a rip I estimate the relative magnitude of a rip can
be determined by listening. The sound
of the rip gives me some idea of what I may be getting into before I commit
myself to the chaotics of a rip. A rip
resembles to me a boxing match between water from one place meeting water from
another place the large rips I call a row and huge ones a genuine war. That makes me really sit up and pay
attention when I find that I am paddling in a big rip I tell myself that I just
want to get through but not wind up in the middle of it getting punched out,
even if it is only water.
I
have seen situations in large weather systems where nothing worked other than
look at the clouds and apply some local knowledge. In Arctic Bay the ladies told me in undeniable seriousness if the
sound looks dark don’t go down there.
They were completely correct. In
Upernavik my friends at Aappilattoq said if Sanderson’s Hope has a hat on it,
you better believe it is bad.
Motorboat passed by stopped and said to me Upernavik Ajaboq, Wow was
that true as I passed from behind the protection of an island into +25 knots of
wind or cooling wind finding myself over powered. That was when I learned from reality how well my boat and
especially my rudder was designed.
Another time in Torssut Passage the water was an oily calm but I looked
up to see clouds coming at me. I
thought how interesting those clouds were as they were bearing down the ravine
upon me. Then the wind hit nearly
grabbing the paddle from my hands. I
tied the paddle to my kayak and proceeded to make for the nearest landfall
where I could beach my kayak. I was
lucky I could have been on the opposite side of the passage, which was flanked
for miles with vertical basalt cliffs.
To make landfall I would have had to make a broadside to the wind
crossing.
With
light wave action it is easy to determine by listening to guess how close you
probably are to partially submerged reefs, but when you are trying to guess
where submerged rocks are and more difficult to determine submerged sandbars on
an absolutely calm evening this is very difficult. You have to have some familiarity with the area from a chart and
estimate where these obstructions are.
You have to use your paddles as feelers, testing when you have that
little feeling. Paddling with a more
vertical slalom type of stroke is the only means you have for finding depth
hopefully, but unfortunately not necessarily, before you crash.
Water
rushing over sand shallows without wave action is very difficult to estimate
depth because it all looks and sounds the same. All you can do is resort to paddle dunking and a vertical stroke
to try and avoid a frustrating grounding.
Just be glad that you aren't the Queen Mary. I once found myself in broad daylight being picked up by some
waves and about to be dropped on bare sand in Clinton Harbor. I had thought that I could just cut across
the dog-leg shaped harbor at low tide with my kayak. I couldn't imagine how I could ever encounter any situation with
such a shallow draft where I would find myself sitting high and dry on a
sandbar without my complete prior knowledge.
Was I surprised at that last moment when I realized that I was in the
surf just about to run out of water. I
must have looked great to the larger boats, which had no choice than to follow
the channel markers. I had seen what I
thought was a red can as a channel marker that I could just head directly for
cutting across and of course I thought if that is a red can there has to be
water between here and there. Well, the
red can turned out to be a man in red pants out digging clams and of course
people do not dig clams in the water they dig them at low tide when the water
has gone out. Did I feel foolish. I
learned that not all red cans are channel markers, especially if they seem to
walk around on their own. Oh well, you
just never know.
I
had a big surprise one evening when I was out rowing or sculling. Rowing at night has its element of
similarity to paddling but rowing is slightly more difficult because you are
going backward. I thought that at night
if I happen to be rowing the same old route all would be safe. Well it just so happened on that particular evening
there was especially low tide. There I
was rowing along when out of habit I just happened to turn around to check
direction. Oh no, in a split second I
realized that I was just about to ram a set of granite rocks, which I had never
seen exposed before. I suddenly
realized that I was very lucky so far because I was actually rowing through a
random mine field of granite, not a pleasant thought. They don’t call Stony Creek for nothing even for us shallow draft
boaters it is real.
What
is worse about rowing and especially sculling than kayaking is when you ram
something while sculling its very likely to be a solid impact that can do
appreciable damage to the boat and send air born you off your seat. This is just what you need in the darkness
of night, when you have the whole bay to yourself.
These
are those moments when I find that the water is never the same twice.
Day Winter Ice Paddling Technique
(safety items, paddle, painter, hoe, paddle angle, ice, shovel,
backing up, frazzle, skim, paddle blades, sweep, launching, landing, booties,
ice cakes, cockpits, maneuvers, whitewater kayak, wing paddle)
Have
an assortment of safety items, such as an extra paddle, a long bow line or
painter and a garden hoe because although you may be able to launch from a
relatively ice free launch site, things change.
Making
your way through the ice, you have to keep in mind that the paddle must hit the
water and ice at a precise stroke, because at a more oblique angle the paddle
either does not bite the surface of the ice or acts as a shovel to scoop
beneath the ice. The moment the paddle
blade passes beneath the surface of the ice it gains enough leverage to
immediately invert or roll the paddler during the recovery of your paddle
stroke.
Slush
ice is like paddling in applesauce.
Skim or frazzle ice is much more formidable to paddle through not only
because it is abrasive, but because it is highly resistant to penetration,
impossible to judge the thickness of, until you find that you can no longer
punch you paddle blade through the ice to propel your kayak forward. Then there is always the possibility that
the harder you try to break the ice with your paddle the more likely you may
happen to either break your paddle or to find yourself upside down.
At
that point, back out the way you came in, slowly and carefully, although
backing a kayak may seem awkward to do.
Backing up best done by looking at the paddle blade with each stroke
because you will not only see what the blade is doing but your body is in its
position for the most stable balance.
In whitewater paddling being able to paddle backward is very convenient
for many maneuvers.
In
sea kayaking, when a forward sweep is not going to work or is not available
perhaps because of the design of the paddle, paddling backward is very handy
for avoiding being swept, at the last minute, on top of some unexpected rock in
the waves.
Sea
kayaking in the winter is much more complex than in the summer, like a great
game of chess, with your good judgment and skill with a touch of daring once
you can recognize and anticipate conditions to safely sea kayak in the winter
and from there with some additional learning extend your paddling in the
Arctic.
The
bright sun on a day when the air temperature is below freezing may keep the
surface of the water from freezing, but with the declining angle of the sun during
the approach of a quiet evening these same areas are likely to turn into slush
or become glazed with skim ice, which is sharp and difficult to pass through.
Because
frazzle or skim ice is very abrasive and pan ice can puncture the hull the hull
has to be designed and made of materials, which will not be abraded by frazzle
ice or punctured by pan ice. Ice is
quite destructive and if you know you are going to be paddling several miles in
a fabric skinned boat you might consider tying on some protection. For fabric skinned kayaks a small sheet of
highly abrasion resistant slightly rigid polyethylene wrapped and tied around
the bow will be enough to protect the very first foot of the bow where the ice
is most likely to slash the fabric. At
speeds faster than paddling an ordinary fiberglass or wooden motorboat will
sustain damage from frazzle ice and I don't think getting out and walking is
quite the best option.
The
paddle blades I have found to be most suitable for those barbaric encounters
with ice are wide square ended scooped blades made of fiberglass, which is both
strong and resilient enough to tolerate the sometimes necessary repeated impact
of having to break through and hard pushing through the ice. Paddling has to be done in a shallow manner
without submerging the entire blade because if you scoop under the ice you will
capsize the kayak when you recover your paddle stroke. The wide blades provide
more push and are less apt to scoop below the ice.
The
traditional Greenland paddle has a different distribution of surface area,
angle and leverage. Therefore using
this paddle has to be approached in a different way. It is wise to learn the specific Greenlandic techniques for
paddling because they are different than what you can do with a standard
scooped blade.
You
will find that there are times when you either get to sit there and wait for
the ice to melt, which will probably be for too long or you find that are using
all the power you have to get yourself through a patch of skim ice. You will probably find as I do in my area
that the closer you come to shore the tougher the going becomes and sometimes
you just cannot make that last few feet.
This is because nearer to the shore the ice often becomes thicker as you
are approaching source of the ice and you are coming into a more sheltered area
near the shore where the ice can form more readily.
Because
of this excessive stress you have to subject your paddles to during this type
of paddling, be sure to include among the safety items on your deck a spare
pair of the best quality paddles within easy reach on your deck. Remember you have to be your own rescuer.
I
have found, that when the shore is closed off by pan ice or frazzle ice too
thick to paddle through, that the way I have worked out to cross these areas is
very carefully with an ordinary garden hoe and good balance. This is similar to the poling technique used
in East Greenland.
Strange
as it may seem, the greatest progress is made by pushing and pulling the kayak
backward over the ice. The leverage of
the garden hoe and propelling the kayak backward, not only requires using your
arms, but your entire torso as the only means of developing sufficient power
and angle of attack to cross the ice. I
chose the garden hoe not only because of handle length, but also because of the
type of bite it grabs the ice pan with, which allows for not only pushing but
also pulling. I experimented with a
potato rake but I found that you can only pull with a potato rake and the thin
tines do not give as good a purchase on the ice as the 90 degree angle sharp
blade of the garden hoe. The hoe is
more suitable than an ice axe because the hoe is less apt to stab through and
hook itself beneath the ice or to puncture the your kayak.
When
the coast is entirely glazed with remember that when you launch you must not
only carry the hoe and a spare paddle on your deck but also you must have a
long painter or bow line, which is at least 20 feet long, readily available
from your cockpit. Returning and
landing on a glazed rocky is going to be very challenging. You are going to first have to get yourself
up as far as your painter allows then pull your kayak up to you, then you have
to continue the rest of the length of the painter upward until you get to an
area where you can stand up without slipping on the ice. Then you drag the kayak up to you where you
can pick your kayak up and carry it to a safe area.
Beaches
are much more feasible you will find that the hoe will get you up a frozen
beach otherwise you find yourself in a slapstick comedy routine helplessly
trying to claw your way up what is an impossibly slick glazed beach with
nothing except your fingernails.
I
still remember the time I tried to ascend a completely iced beach with a less
suitable tool, that I was sure was going to work, only to find myself sliding
back down either five or six times.
Recently there has been developed some booties for windsurfing, which
have abrasive bottoms if these booties work they will certainly lessen some of
the risk of launching from ice surfaces as I describe to you in the next
paragraphs.
My
experience when finally our harbor at Stony Creek opened up. I found large cakes foot thick of ice, which
I could stand on floating in thinly iced water. As I negotiated launching from a block of ice with my kayak
afloat I found that a kayak can, just quick as a wink, slide over the ice like
greased lightning. I found that this is
quite a good test of paddler's launching skills and I could immediately
appreciate why Baffin Island and Thule kayaks have large cockpits.
In
that last fraction of a second I found myself engaged in lowering myself into
my cockpit just moments before the boat slide out from under me into the water
on its merry way to elsewhere. Nothing
seemed to quite give me any purchase on the ice my garden hoe just didn't quite
have the angle for maintaining its bite.
The paddle just slid off so that even though I had it behind me at a 90
degree angle the paddle was of no assistance.
The peak on the bow deck does not allow me to lay the paddle across the
deck of the kayak. In traditional
Greenland kayaks the deck just in front of the cockpit has a flat area across
the Massik, which the paddle can be laid upon.
There
I was committed without my paddle handy to getting in or falling into the
water. Only my hoe was available for a
means of getting me purchase to recover myself back up on the ice cakes. I couldn’t quite visualize using my garden
hoe for rolling and bracing as I would with my paddle.
The
kayaking booties are not designed to offer even the slightest grip on ice so my
only option was my balance and timing.
I was most glad that this kayak of mine has a large cockpit and a
shallow V wide elliptical cross section mid-ship bottom. I was very lucky and did launch
successfully.
I
have thought about wearing cleats on the bottom of my kayak booties in Arctic
situations where climbing on top of ice could have been an option. However cleats would ruin the interior of my
kayak and I do not have that great a sense of balance. In Arctic people do get out onto multiyear
ice pans but I have not paddled in those areas. Multi year ice is very stable because it is formed as slab ice. Icebergs are not stable you just never know
when a berg will roll over top to bottom or break up. Avoid icebergs.
Once
I actually was safely afloat, the next trick was to force the kayak backward
through the ice into open water. First
I tried my "Wing" paddle but its round edges are of no use for
grabbing onto ice and using the paddle at that high an angle provides the
paddler with no brace support. Then I
tried my garden hoe but the ice was too thin for the hoe to provide any
purchase for pulling power. Next I yanked
off my deck half of my spoon blade whitewater paddle and stowed the other
"Wing" paddle and hoe. The
square sharp ends of the spoon blade was the most suitable and with it I was
able to back paddle the kayak though the ice to open water.
Once
I reached open water I switched back to the "Wing" paddle, dropped
the rudder because this was a convenient combination for enjoying touring the
coast despite the 15 to 20 knot wind.
I prefer to paddle with the "Wing" paddle
because I use my muscles in my lower back.
Doug Bushnell, Westside Boat Shop, 7661
Tonawanda Creek Rd, Lockport, NY 14094 phone1-716-434-5755 advised me that the
wind paddle kayak racing technique uses using the muscles in your body torso
not your arms. Doug Bushnell told me to
pull using rotation of my pelvis pull with one foot and push with the opposite
foot. At the beginning, the power
portion of the stroke use the wing paddle on a very steep angle to get full
thrust with the paddle being as vertical as possible. The paddle stroke comes from your torso in first two feet of the
stroke and then complete stroke with your arm.
In racing the edge of the paddle actually is scrapped along the edge of
the kayak. This wear area of the kayak
is protected with Teflon tape.
In
heavier conditions I would have used the larger surfaced spoon blade. I make the choice on the amount of control I
have over the kayak. When these are the
conditions I am always happy that I keep two types of paddles with me and a
garden hoe for this type of paddling.
And
here is my suggestions for playing "Beat the Berg" however I have
seen bergs cross in front of me in Upernavik moving on the surface much faster
than I can paddle. Launch in a
polyethylene whitewater kayak either in the open water on a day when there is
enough wind to move the ice cakes nicely along or with some current.
I
set some of the ice cakes free so that they are moving along in open water then
I race around them, between them, forward, backward, in figure eights, just any
configuration I can think of to keep it interesting. Ice is so convenient because it breaks in all sorts of shapes so
you have to practice all sorts of turning angles.
The
trick is to anticipate how to pass between the ice cakes or sheets before they
close together and not to touch them with the paddle or the boat.
Practicing
negotiating backwards paddling without loosing it is just the greatest
fun. You have to watch that paddle on
each side otherwise you very quickly find that the stern of the kayak will be
ramming a piece of ice that you did not notice.
It
takes some good guessing how to use the paddle without scooping under them just
another aspect to the whole game. I
think on video that this would be great fun to watch. This I think is the neatest way to have lots of fun. . What I am doing is practice slalom in a
moveable slalom, a fun idea.
Then
playing tugboat with ice chunks is fun as well as jumping the kayak up on top
of the ice pans. This is ice that is only three in thick ice.
The
polyethylene kayaks can take this nasty abuse I used my "Dagger
Response" kayak for this type of paddling.
For
long distance dragging over the ice and for fabric-skinned kayaks I have
devised a fitted sheet of highly abrasion resistant plastic similar to
polyethylene to protect the hull of the kayak. I was unable to test this
because at the last moment the ice went out before I was able to try it. I had
thought of several other solutions to this problem but the protective sheet of
plastic seemed to be the simplest and the lightest.
Muddy Launching Conditions Especially in the Winter
(mud, tricks for dealing with, when to avoid mud)
Mud
although it just lies there and seems so innocent that is what makes it so
deceiving. Mud is really tricky stuff
and you have to keep in mind that the most dangerous quality mud has is its
impersonal vacuosity. Tidal and storm conditions
in the winter are more likely to produce extreme ranges in water levels. The tidal situation can be from a
combination of the moon in perihelion and or a product of the combination of
tides or solely due to of change in water level due to the wind having blown
strongly in the outgoing tidal direction this happens in Long Island Sound.
Don't
be daunted by this type of unexpected change, although you may find that the
floating dock where it was so convenient to put your kayak on top just a few
hours before may not be floating, now that same dock may be just sitting on the
mud. Depending on how far you have to
go to get to water it may be still possible to launch.
You
must be the judge of conditions trying to force your way through long stretches
of mud is very likely not really worth all the effort and unnecessary
risk. Human powered hover craft and the
like haven't been invented yet. The
tide will return sooner or later.
Places
like James Bay, the tide goes out for miles and it is a good idea to know what
the tides are doing before finding yourself stranded in endless miles of
mud. There are areas where the tide is
only six inches, such as Barrow Alaska where the bays have this same situation
at low tide and at high tide you are actually paddling in am emulsion of pitch
black, muddy water rather than the simple clear water you might have thought
the topographic map indicated.
Although
the beach may be iced in, don't bother trying to carry your kayak over the ice
and mud to launch because you won't get very far. Sooner or later you will find, even as you drag your kayak across
the frozen seabed, that your feet are breaking through the surface of the ice
into soft mud.
Oh
boy, guess what! the mud becomes softer, less dense the farther you slog from
shore so make sure I found out from trying this that you have to always keep
one of your feet in the kayak.
I
had one of those moments when I wondered will I be able to float myself in my
kayak out of this mud or will I get to sit for too long a time in the mud
waiting for the tide to float me off.
I
did experience some minor scratching on my hull but that was better than
finding myself helplessly entrapped by the ensuing bottomless mire. I did find that I had a risky contest
between being able to launch on this emulsion of watery, black ooze before I
became helplessly mired. I was
lucky. Usually you can launch just in
time without further trouble, however this depends on the shape of bottom and
the ideal is a gradual drop off into the depths, but then again it is a risky
deal.
One
time I tried stepping out into some mud from my kayak. I discovered to my
horror that I was not able to lift my foot out of the mud. Luckily I had only one foot stuck in the
mud. I was very glad my kayak was right
there. So what I did was to sit back
onto my kayak and pull my foot out of my boot.
Getting
my boot back required super human strength for me to pull out of the mud. I decided not to try that again and paddled
my kayak back into the water.
From
a biological perspective this particular mud I was in was a very loose
agglomeration on non-organic material not agglutinated by the usual anoxic
bacterial. Various types of anoxic
bacteria play an active role in solidifying organic sediments however there are
situations where even those organic sediments cannot solidify because of wind
circulation patterns.
Off
Rogers Island to the east the sediments are in constant flux such that easterly
storms roll up oysters on the beach.
The
most threatening mud situations I have encountered were at the bottom of the
Connecticut River and Barrow Alaska. I
could have very easily broken my paddle shaft with the amount of brute force I
exerted on the shaft forcing my kayak through the viscous mud. These were two situations when I should have
waited for the tide to float me.
Anchorage
Alaska is another place not wise to paddle in because the tide just goes out
and leaves you there with miles and miles of mud. How I found out about paddling in the Anchorage area was I
happened to telephone a friend, Jim Vermilion, who has a kayak rental business
in the area. He told me that Anchorage
was the last place I would want to paddle my kayak, but that Seward is
excellent for paddling.
James
and Hudson Bay offer similar conditions however at Iqaluit on eastern Baffin
Island the tides recede for miles but the bottom is so hard that trucks are
driven out at low tide to unload freighters.
A
major reason why I choose to paddle in Upernavik Greenland was because of the
granite coastline and two meters of tide.
These conditions are very similar to Stony Creek, the same tidal range
and geology.
It
pays to ask local people about paddling conditions.
Winter Commuting
and Sleep Patterns**WN
(changes,
commuting night winter, ice snow, stars)
A Guaranteed Cure
for Those Who Suffer from Abnormal Sleep - Gail E. Ferris
If you are commuting on
evenings when it is so cold that the snow is crunchy and you have to wear
gloves while you set up your kayak for launching to keep your hands from
becoming numb, possibly you might like to plan your kayak portages to avoid the
eminent possibility of falling on the slick ice patches, which can be
everywhere.
You might think that it is
not really necessary but when you return to ramp in the next morning and you
are in a hurry, its worth taking the special precaution of shoveling the boat
ramp with even your paddle before carrying the kayak down to the water's edge
because that same snow will be there when you return the next morning. Booties don't grip ice very well and the
thought of falling while carrying a kayak on your shoulder is not pleasant.
Now you have to do some
planning if you make a decision to launch from an area, which is at night fall
a quiet nearly windless evening as you disembark on the water filled with slush
ice and the expected evening temperature are to remain in the range of 15 to 20
degrees F.
Remember that you are taking
a chance that the slush ice could solidify into a solid sheet that is
impenetrable for you with just a kayak and paddle without a garden hoe. Trying to force your way by repeated ramming
just doesn't work very well. Ramming is
a lot of work you take the risk of rolling over while you are backing up to get
up speed to ram passageway through the ice each time. The ice breaks apart beneath your bow but the ice to the side
where you need to dig in with your paddle may still be too thick for you to
break through the ice to gain purchase with your paddle. Ramming ice is slow hard work.
These are a few of those
chances that are part of your challenge, which may turn out to be not as
expected.
But if you find yourself
getting edgy just tell yourself that this takes some calm reserve and steel
nerves. To kayak under these conditions
as the ice and the darkness makes commuting by kayak in the winter feel very
isolating.
One factor to consider is
that as the sun sets radiant heat energy is lost. Just as the sun was setting
the water was nearly ice free but on the return an hour later ice developed on
the surface. The ice formed as a combination
of slush, other ice was splintery skim or frazzle ice and the third type of ice
was periodic pans of slush and skim ice all of this same ice in the darkness I
knew I would encounter unexpectedly.
Once on the Connecticut
River in December in my kayak I actually saw flat hexagons of six to ten inch
diameter ice hexagons develop on the surface instantly just the moment the
sun’s rays were extinguished. This was
north of Essex.
During one evening as I
paddled across the rippled water to Rogers Island it was quiet. There were no gulls on Dick's Rocks that
night. I leaned back onto the aft deck
and looked up into the heavens for shooting stars, but there were none tonight. I thought about the winter constellations,
those that I should learn and the old favorites I knew so well.
While sleeping out in the
open as the season progresses, I would wake up from my slumber and watch the
constellations as they make their passage through the evening sky. As the season progressed the constellations would
in a slightly more eastward position each evening and bringing with them a new
succession as the seasons progress.
Nothing seems more mystical
and fascinating than the early spring constellations in the early morning
hours.
These constellations seem to
be a whole new world not only they are dramatic in size but the harbingers of
spring while winter is still upon us.
The most bizarre meteor
shower I saw was the Geminids one January.
One Christmas eve I went
paddling in full moonlight at three quarter tide. The Granite of all the edges of the islands were festooned with
focus glazed with ice making them look as though they were garlanded with
silver. What a sight.
The
moonlight turns the world into a scintillating silvery paradise especially ice
frozen onto the seaweed on the rocks.
Paddling in the winter evening is something not to be missed.
Ice at Night**
(kayak design, in
ice, at night, Greenland)
There is a difference to paddling in
the ice pans and slush when you cannot see objects directly in front of you at
night. This situation requires that you
must know what your kayak will do when you suddenly run up on an ice pan. I found that it is important to have a
rockered hull with a shallow "V" bottom and closed bulkheads that
have air bags inside them. The kayak
needs to have sufficient secondary stability so that the kayak is be able to
maintain stability when the bow is resting on an ice pan and should it fill
with water will float level with the paddler sitting in it. I found that by running the bow slightly up
on the beach similar to what would happen if the kayak were to have rammed up
onto a pan of ice I can estimate how much secondary stability my kayak has and
how comfortable this secondary feels to me.
This type of stability I also find rather important for taking
photographs and videos when I am on the water.
I have gotten rid of and avoided kayaks that do not a rockered shallow
“V” hull. All Greenland and Canada kayaks
shallow "V" hulls.
The Greenlandic kayak hulls from
Ilulissat and Ammassalik accommodate the necessity of being able to get the
kayak up on the ice in their kayak designs before the pans of ice collide
crushing the kayak. In the Ammassalik
Greenland area the kayak is designed with ivory runners attached to the keel
and between the chine so that paddler is able to get the kayak up on the thin
ice and pole the kayak across the ice to firm ground. Ammassalik kayak paddlers have hook shaped ends in bone or ivory
on the ends of their paddles for grabbing the ice.
Night Winter
Paddling with swells**
(night, slush
ice, swells, open areas, paddling technique, ice concentrations, dragon's back,
preoccupation)
After numerous days of heavy
wind I had to negotiate a midnight crossing through slush ice seawater. The swells were still running and the
temperature was nearly zero. I
specifically choose a launch site at Pine Orchard, which had better salinity
because Stony Creek was frozen in.
This is when sea kayaking becomes a
very serious, dangerous undertaking.
The inner areas of estuaries along the coast first freeze. Because fresh water is less dense than salt
water, fresh water flows out on top of the seawater. When it is cold enough
there is some freeze separation of the seawater as well. Ice floats because it is less dense than
water. The less salt in the ice the
more brittle and the more salt the more flexible is the ice.
From my kayak cockpit
paddling even under the glaze of moonlight, I find that I cannot see an area of
slush ice. The light and vision angle
is not sufficient.
The slush may look like open
water because it is being kept in motion by the incoming swells. These swells can do the same to the
conglomeration of small pan ice.
Only from shore could I see
in the first 1000 yards where the ice pans have left off and where there could
be an impenetrable extensive ice slush area.
However although conditions appeared from the shore to be less
questionable I know that I cannot judge the strength and size of the swells at
night even under moonlight. The amount
of light is insufficient for depth perception at long distance. At night and even in the day it is difficult
to accurately judge conditions as much as you might know you just have to be
there
I keep in mind that when I
am committed to paddling within the slush ice even where it is was freer with
less volume, turning around the kayak to reverse direction will require having
to perform disconcerting maneuvers. The
trick is not to catch your paddle under the ice while trying to reverse
direction. I am not too concerned about
short distances through slush ice but in this situation the distances were not
just in the tens of feet but actually in the hundreds of feet.
I have had to keep in mind
that although it may be dark or I might be preoccupied with other aspects, I
must consciously avoid passing the paddle beneath the ice and confine all
strokes to being specifically very shallow just on the surface of the icy water
or just penetrating part way through the surface of the ice.
I have had to train myself
and practice enough to recognize what angle of the paddle shaft I had to
maintain consistently.
In the middle of the night
disembarking from Pine Orchard yacht club area as I paddled past the protection
of some outlying rocks I discovered that I feeling something absolutely
shocking.
My kayak was rising up
alarmingly beneath me and swaying decidedly, as these strong swells running
through the slush ice were lifting me up and thrusting me downward the slush
ice.
Although there were no
waves, the density of slush like riding on a carpet just beneath the
surface. I felt just as though I was on
the back of a sea serpent. And at night
with no visual cues I found this to be an exhilarating experience.
Then from out of the slush
back into the outlying narrow band of small ice pans and pass into open water
all the swells felt just routine.
But that was a most
memorable experience to be paddling along in my kayak and to feel as though I
was on the back of a dragon. I asked
Ken Fink about this and he has had the same experience. www.kayaksymposium.org/who_we_are.html
It's a very amusing
sensation to paddle through an area of slush ice and suddenly feel your boat
shoot forward when you pass into open water.
I have found that in
crossing stretches of open water and migrating conglomerations of ice, one of
the reasons why it is important to have a boat, which will retain its stability
even if you ram an unseen pan of ice.
Night vision http://www.accessexcellence.org/AE/AEC/CC/vision_background.html
does not cover directly if front of the you do not see directly in front of
your field of vision however you do have vision starting at 15 degrees on
either side.
What I did was to turn my
head frequently from side to side and use my peripheral vision as much as
possible. When you are looking directly
at a small diameter object directly off your bow, it is not visible until you
have actually passed partly by it. Boat
stakes can be a big surprise.
In the dark of morning I
nearly did collide with a boat stake that was directly in front of me. I resorted to staying out of the boat stakes
in the dark because those skinny little wise guy stakes just seemed to jump in
front of my kayak.
When
rowing in the dark I found that I have an even more limited range of vision
because I cannot rotate my head quite far enough to have a range of vision so I
prefer to row facing forward. I use
either the Frontrower http://www.frontrower.com/ or the
E-Z Rower http://www.ez-row.com .
Changes During
the Winter Night Next Morning:**
(temperature,
wind, time, breakup, pans, currents, movement, just when you thought you knew
everything)
There is a certain
undeniable reality to those stories of the far north describing the moment when
during very cold conditions depending on the salinity and temperature. In my area, here in Stony Creek, at about 10
degrees F when the wind stops the water freezes over.
Even though I might think
that since I would be leaving at dawn, only a few hours away, that conditions
would continue as I have just left them, guess what - things change!
For instance, the next
morning, there can appear on the water, a line of ice pans working their way
past the south side of Rogers Island where I may have never seen ice
before. For as much as I might think
that I know this area very thoroughly.
I may just happen to find that I have just been confronted by something
I hadn't thought of. Oops!
A change in wind direction
can easily break pans of ice off from shelf ice into two and three inch thick
ice pans. Wind can break large ice pans into small pieces if it is blowing at
twenty to thirty knots. Even a light
ten to fifteen-knot wind will push ice against current and tides. Oh well!
Maybe I had forgotten that
NOAA www.crh.noaa.gov/lot/marine.html
forecast
was for the wind, which had been blowing for days from the west, was going to
switch to blowing from the north.
Well, the question I have to
ask myself is what are the possible consequences from this wind change that
will affect the surface of the near freezing water and the ice that is already
on the water?
Although I may have noticed
a slight breeze from the north and perhaps earlier I thought nothing of
it. Then I saw ice working its way past
the south side of Rogers Island http://thimbleislands.com/discover.htm I realized that this ice is being pushed by
the wind from the north. Suddenly I
have just found out that all the world has become ice. But lo and behold, something else is
happening as I notice that one pan of ice is rapidly moving by in the opposite
direction of what I might have expected, here is one of those prime examples
where the ice is obviously being propelled by the more dominant force which is
the wind. This wind will overpower the
movement of currents and tides pushing before the wind the ice to the north
southward. There are also situations where strong currents will carry ice bergs
and bergy bits past each other is opposite directions so that they crisscross
each other despite the direction of the tide.
Ice, air and water will be
moved by what ever is the dominant force at the moment but luckily ice is easy
to see.
Now I just discovered that
most of the crossing I made the previous evening is now inundated with ice
because the wind died off while the temperature dropped below 10 creating a
huge inundation of slush ice. I decided
that it was safer and easier for me not to go north to Pine Orchard but instead
to head across to the Flying Point off Stony Creek. So I made the crossing and had to walk over to Pine Orchard to
retrieve my car and get to work several hours later. I just did not want to risk getting stuck in all that slush ice
between Rogers Island and Pine Orchard.
This was before cell phones and no body except myself was on the water
to start with.
Snowy Morning
Crossing**
(weather
forecasts, wind conditions, direction, temperature, snow, fetch, paddle leash,
helm control, swimming, decisions, safety margins, comfort level, commuting,
entrapment )
I listened as I always do to
the forecast one evening, which did not seem too particularly threatening as I
weighed my options. The weather
forecast reported that the weather was to be an overcast evening with
temperatures in the twenties and snow starting in the early hours of the
morning. For me, as a kayak commuter,
the most critical part of the forecast was the winds, which were expected to be
from the northeast at ten to twenty knots but to increase during the next day
to fifteen to twenty knots from the east.
This implied that some higher gusts might be expected with small craft
warnings to be issued.
From my experience I
considered some of the key factors for wave height is fetch and length of time
and since my destination had less than a mile fetch to the north and east
whereas to the southwest the Long Island Sound fetch was twenty eight miles, I
knew that the waves would not be of threatening height. Also, I knew that I might have had some
protection from such a short fetch by the relative rise in the land when the
wind blew from to the north and east.
Certainly in this short a distance, the height of the waves would not
reflect the true strength of wind from these directions so once again as I
decided to commit myself, I had some of those foreboding apprehensive feelings,
which made me ask myself as I prepared to get underway "do I really know
what I are be getting into?"
From past experience, when the wind on
land doesn't seem that powerful, as a last resort I have found that I can
access the strength of the wind as I carry my kayak to the water's edge.
If the wind nearly carries
me and my kayak off, giving me a difficult time handing my kayak on land put it
in position just for the launch, then I know that I must prepare for the
possibility what some strong gusts can do.
I make sure that I have no
error or distractions to contend with so that I can devote my entire focus on
staying upright and under control in this wind. I make sure that all my cargo is not only properly stowed but
tied into the kayak that there are no loose lines to become entangled
with. Just as I am about to get
underway I very assiduously check my options for what protection and what
obstructions might affect my launching.
Getting tangled up in pilings or forced into a wall by some good wind so
that I can't get moving can make maneuvering the kayak very difficult. Then I put on my spray skirt making sure
that it is on properly and firmly, assist myself in maintaining and controlling
the helm and headway I put my rudder down and if I have a skeg put that down
and adjust it as necessary. Then
finally and most importantly I choose the paddle with sufficient surface area
to handle strong wind and made sure that my pogies were protecting my hands
sufficiently.
Because I know what it feels
like to be out there in wind that tries to rip the paddle out of my hands, I
secured my paddle to the kayak by tying it with the polypropylene painter on
the bow. With that if I go out of the
boat the kayak and paddle are together and I am free to rescue myself without
the complication of a feathered paddle that the wind can exert tremendous
pressure on, which is attached to my wrist.
Among the possibilities of things that may go wrong in chaotic
conditions, loosing my paddle to the wind is the least desirable fate I wish to
experience.
To
make matters worse not only was the wind blowing 20 knots, it was snowing
heavily as I disembarked from the protected shore I very seriously thought
about my attempt in making this crossing that I did not want to go for a swim
in the snowstorm on Long Island Sound.
Was it worth making this crossing just for going to work I wondered, as
I carefully felt and evaluated the strength of the wind once I passed into the
open water from the protection of the pier.
I knew how easy it is to trick oneself into thinking that conditions are
not as threatening as they actually are.
How close the opposite shore seems until the moment suddenly arrives
when the horrified paddler realizes, all too late, that things are out of control. In a thick snow storm in the dark of predawn
winter morning for the solitary paddler the most candid judgment is necessary.
Paddling into the driving
snow was difficult because the wind drove the snow like very painful little
missiles into my eyes when I looked across the bay at my destination. My hat and swim hat had only a small visor
offered little protection as the snow plastered itself onto my face causing
increasingly intense pain from its' coldness.
Now I wished that I had worn my neoprene diving hood and a baseball cap
as a better defense against the driving snow.
I had to frequently look
straight ahead to check my direction because of the offsetting currents in this
area. The wind was not much more that
fifteen knots but the discomfort and visual problems caused by the driving snow
were disconcerting. I began to wonder how much of this discomfort I could
really take and would I get across before this piercingly cold driving snow
became too much for me.
And so as usual by the time
I had made my way across the harbor conditions abated. I was most happy that they were no worse
than what I found.
Winter cold weather and
evening clothing**
(night, insulation, fabrics,
drysuit, booties, pogies, foam, paddle shaft)
Since I can't stand the idea
of having to stop paddling once the cold of winter sets in, I have decided to
figure out how to feel warm in cold temperatures especially on winter
nights. How to stay warmer longer is
perfectly possible with both traditional and modern. For me there is no fun in being cold.
Anyone who has tested the
drysuit and compared it to neoprene will tell you that the dry suit was a very
important piece of paddling equipment, not only for enjoying sea kayaking but
also were you are very concerned with prevention of hypothermia and
safety.
The advantage, which the dry
suit has, when compared to neoprene wet suits, is that the dry suit is easier
to put on, less restrictive being much easier to move your arms for those
countless paddling strokes, and will keep the immersed paddler warmer than a
wet suit, provided the integrity of the waterproof seals has been maintained.
For we who paddle alone, the
dry suit and neoprene hood reduces the possibility of hypothermia but even more
threatening the much more commonly fatal danger of cold shock because cold
shock is completely incapacitating.
From
prehistoric times dry suits have been used by kayak paddlers in the
Arctic. Also there are full dry suits
created of walrus intestines for umiaq rowing and paddling and for rain
clothing in Arctic regions.
However
here in this day and age when I talk to most open water scullers they cannot
imagine and do not want to entertain the reality that rowing during the winter
is taking a completely unnecessary risk.
“Oh that doesn’t exist” or “it is too expensive.”
For
a mere six or seven hundred dollars a proper fitting dry suit is available
manufactured by Ocean Systems sold by CMC Rescue via Better Products through
Daniel Meloche at Better Products at rescuealive@charter.net
1-800-423-0686.
Danial
Meloche teaches ice water rescue in Massachusetts. He teaches survival technique of just at the moment the rescuer
or boater is hitting the water with his face dry drowning can be reduced by covering
his mouth and nose with his hand, something I did not know before.
Frank
Penna of Stony Creek who like myself likes to be on the water in challenging
conditions has found this resource.
Frank likes to row sliding seat in 30+ knots of wind anytime throughout
the year. Believe me his carbon fiber
sculls get a full work out.
This
suit in bright orange is designed as para-jumper rescue surface diving swimming
in ice water rescue conditions. The
maximum flexibility in this suit by gussets on the arms and legs. Front entry dry zipper and relief zipper
neoprene over long life latex seals, and with Cordura nylon reinforcements for
slip and wear resistance on wear points.
The
important reason for Cordura reinforcement being necessary is because ice especially
frazzle or skim ice is razor sharp. Any
ice can have sharp areas on it.
I
saw a jagged chunk of ice riddled with sharp cutting edges pop up to the
surface just inches from my kayak when I least expected it. A very threatening moment for me.
For
myself this is a huge break though to find that there really is a suit designed
to accommodate the full range of flexibility a sliding seat rower must have.
$600.00
is hardly any money for cold water safety when cold water boating is a passion.
http://www.echorowing.com/contactus.html
http://www.rescuealive.com/services.html
Although the neoprene wet
suit will give the immersed paddler some time before hypothermia sets in, the
dry suit will keep the paddler comfortably warm for a long time. S.C.U.B.A. divers in my area on the coast of
Connecticut switch from neoprene wet suits to dry suits in November.
When there is no sunlight I
will quickly feel how adequate my layers of insulation are, especially if I
have built up a sweat, which has begun to condense. For several years I wore a combination of thin layers of
polypropylene and a heavy wool sweater beneath my dry suit. After I read Will Steiger's North to the
Pole, in which he described the extreme conditions he had to dress for,
which ranged from extreme cold to large amounts of hard work, I switched to his
recommendation of thin layers polyethylene fiber underwear such as
"Thermax" which I find to be excellent especially when worn next to
the skin. I wear as many thin layers as
I feel necessary at the time. The outer
upper layer of a Lands End bulky wool sweater for the torso and arms works
well.
I will probably find as I do
that its just that the initial moment of leaving the warm sanctuary of my house
and loading the boat on the car when it is bitter cold that is going to be the
most difficult for me.
I found that my feet become
quite numb at temperatures below 20 degrees F. unless I wear booties, which are
specifically designed with tight ankle seals to stay completely dry in
combination with "Thermax" socks or I can wear teflon lined socks
such as Seaskinz or Goretex oversocks as liners inside my latex drysuit leg
seals.
The best solution was
recommended by Ken Fink. www.ihpva.org/pipermail/hpv-boats/2003q3/004122.html
goretex socks can be added to the bottom of
your drysuit to replace your latex gaskets.
I have found that these socks are just the best and they are amazingly
tough. In Upernavik I was forced to
walk a few steps on sharp granite on my goretex socks. No damage was sustained even though the
socks were wet on the outside and I had to lift my heavy kayak.
My feet were dry and
comfortable throughout my kayak paddling all day long for ten to twelve hours
at a stretch in Upernavik.
http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/Trips/Gail/MarkIchoice.htm
Nothing like trying to carry
a kayak up an icy beach with numb feet.
The most critical part of
paddling in the cold is maintaining warm hands. On the water hands become not only cold but can easily become
completely useless and then the next question is how can I re-warm my hands
this can be difficult.
Pogies with fabric liners do
not work for me. Especially if this
type of pogies become wet at night you will not be able to rewarm your
hands. My pogies always become wet and
I cannot imagine paddling without dunking my paddle shaft pogie and all into
the water at some moment while I am on the water. Dry pogies mean sterile paddling to me, not exactly realistic for
my method.
This problem can be resolved
by making or buying foam filled gauntlets, which are attached to the paddle
tightly enough to not let to wind penetrate but are of a fabric such as Nylon
pack cloth, which will be slippery enough to not impede paddle rotation. The best design for these gauntlets is to
have them designed and sewn to always stay open so that I can easily thrust my
hand into them at any time. I should
chose to fill the nylon shell with a sheet of closed cell foam packing
material, because it is usually likely that I might dunk them in the water at
sometime during paddling. The
critically important, safety margin of these gauntlets is that these foam lined
gauntlets will warm my numb hands in six paddle strokes even when everything is
wet and iced.
Stoquist now is offering a
similar gauntlet with Velcro closures.
I have added to my gauntlet Velcro closures that open and close along
the paddle shaft with elastic sewn into the edges that encompass the paddle
shaft. These work best because they can
be vented when my hands become too warm on a bright sunny day.
I prefer for security to
have my bear hands in direct contact with the paddle shaft however a hollow
fiberglass paddle shaft certainly does conduct cold very well.
I have found it important to
I packed the shafts of take-a-part paddles with some form of Styrofoam. This
non-absorbent foam not only makes the two piece paddle shaft feel warmer. Equally important this additional foam
floatation insures that the paddle will always float even if it is separated
into two sections.
I wear wool gloves with rubber
nubbins for handing my kayak in snowy conditions.
Gail E. Ferris,
1 Bowhay Hill,
Stony Creek, CT 06405
USA
phone 1 203 481-4539
E-mail: gaileferris@hotmail.com, Northern Kayak Horizons
- the water and the ice are never the same.